The Beta Angel Project

Thanks to @rockandice for highlighting the great work being done on climbing research. Resources exist to peer into the conversation. #climber #bouldering #rockclimbingresearch #betaangelproject #evolv #teamevolv @evolv_worldwide #climbingtraining bit.ly/2HqchLA

Stay up to date with @rockclimbing science. Here's a link to the March Newsletter for the Beta Angel Project. #climber #bouldering #rockclimbingresearch #betaangelproject #evolv #teamevolv @evolv_worldwide #sportclimbing #climbinggym #climbingtraining beta-angel.com/2019/03/11/the…

Hi everyone. Who doesn't like stats?! Here's a very brief 2018 year in review for the Beta Angel Project. Enjoy! beta-angel.com/2019/03/02/201… beta-angel.com/2019/03/02/201…

Second experimental training protocol by some amazing French researchers is now available in an easy format to read and understand. This is one that I hope climbers treat with careful gloves due to the population it was used on (super... beta-angel.com/strong-fast/

Experimental Training Section - "The Classic" finger strength exercise. I'm starting a new section of my website designed to showcase researchers and the protocols they use. This one is aptly named: "The classic" because it's associated... beta-angel.com/the-classic/

I've added a new section to Beta Angel entitled: "Experimental Training." It's designed to highlight the protocols used by the top researchers in climbing. There are just a few up right now, with more to follow in the... beta-angel.com/research/exper…

Mike Rougeux’s team, the Bend Endurance Academy (BEA), punches hard for their numbers. At this year’s 2019 Bouldering Youth National Championship, the team took 8th place out of 88 teams with an... beta-angel.com/research/scien…

Experimental training protocols can be found throughout the research literature. I'm starting to aggregate them into a single place. beta-angel.com/research/exper… beta-angel.com/research/exper…

Climber's Strategic Resting profiles! Do you rest like this?! beta-angel.com/research/perso… beta-angel.com/research/perso…

What was new at Beta Angel for January?! Take a look beta-angel.com/2019/01/31/wha… beta-angel.com/2019/01/31/wha…

I wrote an article for Rock & Ice about a small piece of the Olympic puzzle in Tokyo, Japan. The article discusses how Speed climbing is being integrated into planning for the Olympic Combined... rockandice.com/inside-beta/co…

Update! Dr. Volker Schöffl commented on our search strategy. It was helpful! beta-angel.com/research/perso… beta-angel.com/research/perso…

Not going into 2018 research. Ugh. Take a read for some interesting research on BMI, performance and injuries. facebook.com/story.php?stor…

New Summary up of the research behind the Andersons Brothers' Rock Prodigy Forge hangboard. Summary/Results: The creators of the Rock Prodigy Training Center (RPTC) developed a new dual-mounted hangboard (RP... sciencedirect.com/science/articl…

Collaborating with a Japanese colleague on risk factors in climbing. I found the research on the association between grip strength and injury to be both interesting and puzzling at the same time. For those who are... facebook.com/thebetaangel/p…

New Summary on #rockclimbing and #bouldering wrist taping from Beta Angel C. Lutter and V. Schöffl (2017) review the literature on wrist taping and make recommendations based on anatomical analysis and clinical... facebook.com/thebetaangel/p…

Researchers or individuals interested in looking for climbing research through PubMed may be interested in a search strategy they can easily use. Learn how the Beta Angel Project keeps up-to-date on climbing... facebook.com/thebetaangel/p…

Updated #rockclimbing and #bouldering Research Summary! de Geus et al (2006) looked at 15 expert climbers to compare the physical effect (cardiorespiratory) of a treadmill test and success on four routes with... facebook.com/thebetaangel/p…

Research in Sport Climbing may be getting a home for articles to be published! Excited! facebook.com/thebetaangel/p…

Updated #rockclimbing and #bouldering Research Summary! Researchers assessed physical differences between three levels of climbers (notice, skilled, elite) to predict climbing ability while also assessing general... facebook.com/thebetaangel/p…