LGSGaming

Progress on PS2 7x series IDE to M2 SATA flex, I think I'd need to adjust the end to have it suit other adapters but this one won't need to have the pins removed and 'plug straight in' I've test fit on paper cut outs, a few iterations and hoping no duds. I'll do the traces soon

@eevblog No one as far as I am aware

Is there anyone saying Albo's speech was anything but "totally useless", or "worst most pointless speech ever"? Anyone at all?

@RetroJeff83 It will be interesting to see how this turns out. Will certainly be keeping any eye out for further updates

Customer asked if I could restore and refurbish this SCPH-1001 model PlayStation I have little faith I’ll be able to get the plastic completely back to OEM gray but hopefully can make it look a lot better It also doesn’t power on so disc playback is unknown

@topvint I have the D100 stuff except mine is not a brush but a bottle and needle. It is hands down the best contact cleaner I have ever used. It is expensive but it goes a long way. Have not used the gold before

Just spent a small fortune on these 😅😭

I went with 130s. I basically took the value of the resistors on the Borti board and the stock resistors (I think 150) on the SFC mainboard and figured out their combined resistance using the parallel resistance rule. I remember it came out fairly close to 130. At any rate scope measurements with the 130s fitted had it pretty bang on 0.7, so I was happy. I might consider running my design at 3.3v also. Will look into an on board 3.3v regulator, maybe something like a ADPL40502. Still not 100% sure as the ghosting fix with the cap does work fairly well for the most part

@LukesGameStuff Also what did you settle on for the input pull downs ? I went 130r according to scope readings. I think 130-132 is the sweet spot.

Super Famicom 1-CHIP with my new freshly minted RGB bypass installed. I decided to base mine around the ADA4856. Mainly to be different, but it is also a higher class of video amp, so there is that also Also kept the design fairly simple as I only plan on doing 1-CHIP 01-03 boards so not interested in any sort of s-video restore or anything like that Brightness fix is done on the SFC mainboard by replacing the attenuation resistors vs adding resistors in parallel between GND and the RGB lines. 1% ones are installed at the moment, but I plan on using 0.1% going forward for superior color accuracy. In the next couple of weeks, I plan on open sourcing this for people that may wish to play around with this. But for now, I am going to put it through its paces. Fairly happy with the results so far though

I normally go to DigiKey to find the parts. They have a fairly good search function on their site that can help you narrow down parts based on your requirements. When I have narrowed it down to a handful of parts, I then look at the datasheets to narrow it down to the final part. Other things like cost and availability also play into this too

@LukesGameStuff How do you go about deciding what chip to use and where do you look?

I don't expect mine to gain a great deal of traction either. I am very interested as to the reason why supplying the amp with 3.3v vs 5v fixed the ghosting issue though. My current system that I have this installed in has the capacitor fix for the ghosting installed. But if there is another way to fix that and avoid the minor graphical glitches associated with that method, then I would be very interested in implementing that into my design in the future

@LukesGameStuff The exact way I did mine a few years ago after prototyping for ages. Just replace the aging attenuation resistors that are always unbalanced and off spec anyway and install the correct value for 0.7vpp output. I ran mine at 3.3v which fixed ghosting.

It is just straight unmodified TTL coming from the console. Most of the csync cables that are out there have the 470ohm resistor in series on the csync line to drop it down to correct levels. The only place I could find that sells one with straight through csync is Insurrection Industries. Whilst proper 75ohm sync would be preferrable, it seems to be that most of the cable makers are expecting a TTL signal on that line and are putting the resistor in, so there is that to consider. Also, if 75ohm csync is a must there is also sync on luma

@LukesGameStuff @Guyverjay12 I want to buy one for my 1 chip 03, does your solution also provide proper attenuation for the TTL c sync signals?

@Guyverjay12 I think the brightness fix is mandatory with these systems. As for the bypass I would not say it is needed necessarily. But it is an upgrade

@LukesGameStuff Do 1 chips need an RGB bypass?

@MisirajEduart Thanks

@LukesGameStuff Very nice 👌🏻

@jakeshieldsajj I am. Unfortunately, I am not a very good photographer, though

Anyone else watching this blood moon?

Myrient shutting down March 31st, 2026 :( This is what AI and greed does.

@OGX_Harcroft @modzvilleusa @JLCPCB Well, I hope you can get it sorted out. Strange issue though

@LukesGameStuff @modzvilleusa @JLCPCB Actually that doesn't matter. I don't have drills in my toggle switch board. No idea why they're having this issue.

I verified @modzvilleusa's issue with @JLCPCB's new gerber renderer. They are not rendering plated slots properly anymore. Top is an order in december, bottom is the same gerber today. Until JLC corrects this I recommend using any other board house when OpenXHD is released.

@OGX_Harcroft @modzvilleusa @JLCPCB Here is a quick test I knocked up in Kicad and loaded up in the JLPCB Gerber viewer. Traces are running to what I assume are milled holes. Worked fine for me

@LukesGameStuff @modzvilleusa @JLCPCB The holes are the drill holes and should be there. The missing mechanical layer for the rest of the slot is the concern. i'm talking with support but just like with the sparse silkscreen issues when they switched to inkjet printers I expect a fix to be a long drawn out process.

@OGX_Harcroft @modzvilleusa @JLCPCB That is weird. Not sure I have any other suggestions I'm sorry to say. It is strange that they are filled in on the second pcb vs first where they have been changed from slots to holes

@LukesGameStuff @modzvilleusa @JLCPCB I found any plated slot with a trace running to it does not render correctly, but any plated slot with no connecting traces does render correctly. Verified on another board. I added traces to the mount points on the top 2 switches. No traces on the slots on the bottom switches.

Reminder that I still have this Xbox 360 RGH3 console up for sale for those that are after one. Price is $160AUD shipping included. Australia only. There is also a 250gb on there as well lgsgaming.com.au/product/211168…

@usa_retro Yes. However, I think the issue is blown entirely out of proportion. I also wonder how much so called 'disc resurfacing' plays in this issue. Could be an interesting thing to consider

I've been seeing a lot of people on this app saying disc rot isn't a real thing. What do you think? Is it real

@cyothevile I have a bunch of loose PS1 discs that I have collected from Ebay lots in a draw. They have been sitting there for years now, in the open and with no protective case. And guess what? They all play fine. I also live in Australia by the ocean (so incredibly hot and humid)

No we arent.