DWC Marshal Arts

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DWC Marshal Arts

DWC Marshal Arts

@Infurnationale

27 | Greetings! Writer-illustrator for the sci fi series “The Percivals” https://t.co/d0X7qPAsmP https://t.co/EwQrPWD1Tq

Greksil, Concordant System Katılım Nisan 2018
339 Takip Edilen25.6K Takipçiler
DWC Marshal Arts
DWC Marshal Arts@Infurnationale·
House Carocs, the Lords of Collingbroke
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DWC Marshal Arts
DWC Marshal Arts@Infurnationale·
@JpmSaimonCat The combination DID matter! They just had different rules and aesthetic practices.
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DWC Marshal Arts
DWC Marshal Arts@Infurnationale·
Should issue the disclaimer that the recent lapel/gorge/notches on suits discourse is addressing our modern understanding of suits. These rules become a more irrelevant the further back in time you go, when suits as we know them didn't exist the way they do today.
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DWC Marshal Arts
DWC Marshal Arts@Infurnationale·
@ratbuchet @Iseemeinfood But you were right, OP! It's too broad/generalizing to say "Italian" vs. "English." In fact, many (I'd wager most) English suits have gorge lines that begin above the shirt collar bottom, even if the notch is low. x.com/Infurnationale…
DWC Marshal Arts@Infurnationale

While I'm at it, I found this bit of generalizing misinfo in the replies of the op, claiming that only Italian suits have gorges above shirt collar bottoms. Not always true. Edward VIII and other members of the UK famously wore English suits that had variably high gorge lines.

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Wendi🦟
Wendi🦟@ratbuchet·
@Iseemeinfood oh i didnt know this! i came to this conclusion because every single photo of a suit ive ever seen had the gorge on top of the collar. maybe its more popular/the standard?
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Wendi🦟@ratbuchet·
psa for fellow formal wear enthusiasts
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DWC Marshal Arts
DWC Marshal Arts@Infurnationale·
There's also some confusion between the "gorge line" and the notch itself. It *is* true that many English suits do have low notches (esp. DBs), but op WAS RIGHT that the gorge line *itself* FREQUENTLY starts above collar bottom. None of these are "Italian suits" lol.
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DWC Marshal Arts
DWC Marshal Arts@Infurnationale·
While I'm at it, I found this bit of generalizing misinfo in the replies of the op, claiming that only Italian suits have gorges above shirt collar bottoms. Not always true. Edward VIII and other members of the UK famously wore English suits that had variably high gorge lines.
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DWC Marshal Arts@Infurnationale

I'm glad people are picking up on this. What's being called the "notch line" is what's called a "gorge." You don't find it often today, but in well-tailored suits, the gorge is often parallel with shirt collars for visual unity.

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DWC Marshal Arts
DWC Marshal Arts@Infurnationale·
If I'm not mistaken, this originates from a time when coats that preceded what would eventually become the modern suit jacket had collars that could close by the neck. Eventually these would "come open" and turn into the collar-lapel situation we know today.
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DWC Marshal Arts
DWC Marshal Arts@Infurnationale·
Build me a boat That can carry two
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DWC Marshal Arts
DWC Marshal Arts@Infurnationale·
Corporal Harding, cooling off
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DWC Marshal Arts
DWC Marshal Arts@Infurnationale·
Un ami reste toujours un ami quand la vie n'a plus d'amour
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