LukeWarmDesigns

Elon, put me on the Japan algo, wtf?!??!

So apparently, water color painting is a big thing in Japan? TL is full of water painting artists (not complaining). Maybe I can get one of them to do a commission.

@Vamppy_ Also, did you know you can dye that nylon with rit clothes dye?

This is only my 2nd attempt using pa6-GF25 or any nylon filament for that matter. I think its a success for me. Not sure what I else I can do to make it much better.

@Vamppy_ Iirc 300 turns his fans off completely

@LukeWarmDesigns I used the 300 blkout settings for the print. The only thing I adjusted was the temps for the filament and bed

@Vamppy_ Oh fans.... you probably heard the part cooling fan. You don't need nearly as much, if any part cooling with nylon. It reduces layer adhesion and promotes warp. Most of us turn the chilling fans off with nylon. I only have mine come on if layer time goes under, say 20 seconds.

You talking about the lines like this. Honestly I just thought that was normal. As I said this was only my 2nd attempt. 1st one I did failed. The filament should be dry. Its been a dry box with a dehydrator for about a month and then was in a heated filament dryer for the last 4 days roughly. I will say though I did hear the fan turn on and off ever so quickly every now and then. You think that could have been it? Im new to nylons so I honestly dont know.

@Vamppy_ Yea those, they can be eliminated. Try again, but with the printer on its own breaker or only sharing with things that don't cycle on and off. Otherwise looks great

@harveyspistols @TheRascallion @Springfield_Inc If you mount a suppressor on it, do you call it the kuna can?

Alright, MFs! Another mean rock thrower is being given away and this time the story is short. Why is that? Well @TheRascallion just refused to elaborate about what, exactly, he'd gotten himself into. All he would say is that the @Springfield_Inc Kuna sure does perform well in a tight spot. The @VortexOptics Crossfire was nuthin' to sniff at either. So... We are all glad Rascal made it back, from wherever he went and whatever trouble he was in to, and we are DOUBLY glad to have @SummRidge partnering with us on this GIVEAWAY! The good people there got wind of what Rascal had in mind and wanted to chip in so we could give away the Vortex and THREE EXTRA MAGS as well! That is a total of 5 mags coming with this mean little sub gun! SO! FOLLOW US AND @SummRidge , REPOST or QUOTE POST, and REPLY TO ENTER THIS GIVEAWAY! Appreciate you all and good luck this week!

@swanssassin @jerrycurld You first reply was fine, but then you called my response emotional? Please explain how that was emotional? Find out myself? Dude I have a few years on you.

@swanssassin @jerrycurld It isn't tho. It all comes down to accountability, and in the post office they have what I call negative accountability. The lazier and dumber you are the faster you climb the ranks. If you are overqualified and have a good work ethic you will get black balled so fast.

USPS shouldn’t even think about charging extra fees till they stop sending stuff to the state it’s supposed to go to, to the city distribution center even, then sending it to an entirely different state on the day it’s supposed to be delivered.

I keep telling people....

+2 up in this bitch. Don't mind my filthy hands, was just working on my pos truck.

Now with sear saving technology.

@Stubbs_GunGuy @__MPMS__ Every f1 I've done this year has had that cfr as an addendum. Including all metal stuff that got engraved, not just the directly printed serializations, that were stipulated in the details. Buddy made a good point that it's probably for all the people new to f1s and markings.

@__MPMS__ In the form one approval did it specify yes except it has to abide by cfr whatever number as an addendum? I got one approved but it stated this, which requires metal

just got my form 1 3d printed sbr approved 👌 im looking it up but getting mixed signals about the engraving, it can be in plastic or has to have a metal insert? and am i just doing the serial number, or i see some people are also putting the maker/mfg and place of origin

@justagu71135181 I drilled undersize and used a reamer. #41 drill, then a #40 reamer. Next time I think I'll go #42 drill, give the reamer more to bite and less likely to roll over the final edge. I debated end mill too, unsure which creates less burr.

@LukeWarmDesigns As soon as I saw exit burrs it made sense. I hadn't even thought of that. My thought was drill undersize,finish with an endmill.

F1 got approved a few weeks ago. Here are some pics of the process, more in comments.

@justagu71135181 Ill probably throw the f3d and or/step on odysee.

@LukeWarmDesigns Any chance I could beg or buy the print/plans for it?

I cannot wait until this f1 gets approved, I've wanted to do this for over a year now. Integrally suppressed 10/22 barrel. Nothing printed, this will be a lathe project.

@justagu71135181 An attempt at reducing exit burrs on the id of the barrel by filling it up with cerro alloy as a drill backer. Worked better than nothing but not as well as hoped.

@LukeWarmDesigns What are you doing here?

@spikesguides Yup, G0602.

@LukeWarmDesigns 1HP lathe or something beefier?

I threw the integral barrel into my og gr2 build.