genofoto

@indole_gaines 😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂 But i use aiders. Does that count as aid climbing??? 😂😂

@genofoto Technically, this is “dry tooling” 😹🏴‍☠️

sometimes, an ice beak (brand new!) can save your pitch! de vegades, un ancla per gel et pot fer acabar lo llarg! #soloaidclimbing #aidclimbing #climbinggear

@indole_gaines i forgot a couple of them... 🤦🏽‍♀️

@indole_gaines yes!!! absolutely (even if i'm pretty new in this world, i have that book!) but higher education explains all in some minimus details... i use to read in from of the fire place, with a pen and a glass of wine... just perfect! funny fact: i still haven't climbed any bigwall... :(

Back home. 2days of portages dine; one left. Then, time to dance with the rock! Casa. 2 dies de ports fets; me’n queda 1. Després, tornarà lo ball amb la roca. #aidclimbing #verticallife Vid: base camp

@indole_gaines expensive bathroom ;-))) but, to be honest, kirkpatrick is the only one to have explain clearly some tips, and not only for men (in 'higher education, a big wall manual' -best aid / biwall book ever)

@genofoto “Scatological Climbing Social Media” 🔥❤️‍🔥🏴‍☠️😹 andy-kirkpatrick.com/blog/view/goin…

@indole_gaines Best solution (at least for me): use empty lios pouch for that purpose. They are sealed and no smell escape from the bags; and yes cat dirt works pretty well! ;-) Then you store in any bag you want, i mean no need of anything special ;-)

@genofoto …and just in case the money ever starts really rolling in…🤭🔥🏴‍☠️

@indole_gaines As i almost only climb in limestone (at least for now) i don’t use heads (alu nore lead heads). The funniest thing is that in aid climbing each climber has his fave gear (mine: hooks and, recently, beaks). 🙄

@genofoto 2/2. Now, with things like RPs & Lowe Balls & (small/smallest) Aliens etc., the potential for minimal scarring has gone up significantly. Copperheads & Mashies/Bashies are almost an endangered species. Almost 🤭😉🏴‍☠️🔥❤️‍🔥 (You’ll know EXACTLY who she is 🔥);

@indole_gaines I think that beaks are 'complicated' to retrieve, and are not 'anonymous' when you take them off. 🙄

@genofoto I’m convinced that beaks are a more disruptive technology than most people realize. And the inflection point from hammer to Clean is more rapid because of beaks. Ephemeron is A4 today…it will likely be ~C2 in our lifetime with minimal scarring. 🔥❤️‍🔥🏴‍☠️

@indole_gaines at the end, in that route, i could avoid rivets and the tedious part of hand drilling! only half drill for the first point when i 'hammered' a small cassin hook, then in some other muddy part of the rock, i could hammer a very slim beak. (result is on that pic with a hook & beak)

@genofoto I remember Deucey put it in writing once (paraphrasing), “Give me 20 bolts and I’ll put up a 2,000 foot wall.” Less is more. I can’t quite wrap my head around The Kali Yuga. 🔥❤️‍🔥🏴‍☠️🕯️

@indole_gaines of course i mean eights (fingers often do whatever they want and type what they want) 😅

@indole_gaines heights were unbrokenable! mine is still alive (even if i almost never use it anymore: grigri &/or 'monster munter' have replaced it ;-)

@indole_gaines Pic 3 is my screen saver! 😍😍

Oh, Canada 🇨🇦 🍁 👀

@MisterClimber Nooo! 😅

@genofoto Did you whip on it?

Will you trust that? Note that when i was hanging on that hook, feet didn’t touch the rock. #aidclimbing #climbinghooks

Btw, by feet i mean the 2 feet of the hook. -what normally give stability and avoid the hook to dance.

@indole_gaines Before: beak and small cassin hook stuck in mud. (Previous post). Falling here should have been really bad, as there was a sort of ledge. (Limestone crag).

@genofoto In one direction (⬇️)…maybe….depends a little what’s below it. Another directional and/or body-weight placement, maybe not. A sinker nut or really solid cam or nest of RPs…🎲🎲😹❤️‍🔥🏴‍☠️

@indole_gaines 😍😍😍😍😍😍😍😍😍😍 Thanks for that pic!!!

@genofoto 🙀🏴‍☠️

Beak and mud. Luckily i had these really thin beaks; they saved the climb. Rock, here, was mud. The hook before (small cassin’s) was hammered into that mud. #aidclimbing

@ClimbingCoachX I admit, a little bit scary! And after those 2 super pieces 3 more hooks, last 2 weird but good, the first… well… 😉

@genofoto Very impressive!