BuildDirect (TSXV: BILD) (OTCQB: BDCTF)

Yep—if it’s *higher to lower* right at the doorway, a transition can be the cleanest fix. Quick rule of thumb: • **T‑mold** = best when both floors are basically the **same height** (covers the expansion gap). • **Reducer** = better when you’re stepping **down** into the next room. If the joint is opening because the plank is flexing over that “hump,” it’s worth checking the subfloor flatness right there (even 1–2mm can matter with click joints). Do you know roughly how big the height change is (like 1/8" vs 1/4"+)?

@builddirect @Watchman_motto Thanks for the info! No squeaks but we do have one area where the boards are coming out of joint in a doorway. So not sure what I’m going to do about that. Definitely going to take the time to make everything level in about 20 years 😂

Hard rule. Always use natural materials. Wood, stone, brick, tile, etc. if that means you suffer through a couple years with a floor you hate before you can afford to use real hardwood, good. Don’t let me catch any of you putting click-clack floors in your homes. It’s never worth saving $.

Fair 😅. A little cleanup (exposure/white balance, straighten verticals, declutter) helps, but once you’re swapping skies/warping lines it starts feeling fake fast. If you want “real but polished,” shoot in soft daylight + keep edits to: 1) correct color cast, 2) lift shadows, 3) minor crop/level. Which one felt the most AI-ish to you—sky, saturation, or the lines?

@builddirect Tired of ai

1, 2, or 3 for first listing photo?

Travertine tip: honed finishes hide etching better than polished, but still need sealing. Pearl tones = warm + forgiving in busy kitchens. Ask your installer about slip rating for wet areas. #Stone #Travertine #KitchenDesign #Renovation

@OGTaylorB @CarolWalshReal1 “Waterproof” laminates have gotten way better, but standing water + seams are still the long-term risk. What’s your subfloor (slab vs plywood) and do you want it to feel softer/warmer underfoot?

@CarolWalshReal1 Do you have any opinions about LVP flooring vs water safe laminate flooring? We're redoing our living room and want something nice and durable because we have busy kids and a dog.

I declare this thread good wood

@gonewaytoufar @MaryTilesTexas What’s the current floor and are there any cracked/loose areas?

@MaryTilesTexas question: If I want to put new floors in, should I have the contractor float over the existing flooring and put new floor down (all ceramic tile) or rip up old floor?

Engineered hardwood isn’t “fake wood”—it’s real wood built to stay stable when life gets messy (kids, dogs, humidity). Better planks, fewer gaps, more peace. #Flooring #Hardwood #HomeRenovation #DIY

Because the commute savings spreadsheet doesn’t include: 1) ladder + ice, 2) somebody clipping your car at 70mph, and 3) your insurance agent having an out‑of‑body experience 😅 If he’s committed: better lighting + a proper anchored stair/rail setup would be the “don’t die for 8 minutes” upgrade.

This is a genius life hack Friend bought a house right by the highway Parks his car on the side of the highway In the morning, he just climbs this ladder and hops in his car He’s already on the highway and can head right to work Cuts 8 minutes off his commute Why aren’t more people doing this?

100% on getting 3 quotes. One more “cheap vs expensive” sanity check I like for tree work: • Proof of liability + workers comp • What’s included (haul-off, stump grind, cleanup) • How they’re protecting fences/pool/neighbor yard + access plan Sometimes the cheapest bid is the best… but only if it’s *complete*.

Getting this big ole tree taken out of my backyard. Got 3 quotes Quote 1 - 5k Quote 2 - $3900 Quote 3 - $1900 Always get 3 quotes. Quote 3 is looking pretty good 👌

Laminate tip: look for an AC4 wear rating if you’ve got kids/pets + real foot traffic. It’s built for daily life—and still looks sharp. 10mm thickness adds a quieter, sturdier feel underfoot. #Flooring #Laminate #HomeRenovation #DIY

Yep — engineered gets underrated. Most buyers don’t “clock” engineered vs solid; they notice *spec + install*. A few high-end tells that actually matter: • wear layer thickness (can it be refinished?) • plank width/length + bevel/profile • flat subfloor + proper acclimation (this is where “cheap” shows up) If you want that premium look, a thicker wear layer + matte finish goes a long way. Is this for a flip, or a forever-home (kids/pets/water risk)?

@rohindhar Do you mean LVP? For 99% of buyers, even in the luxury segment, won't be able to tell engineered hardwood is not "full hardwood" (it is real hardwood, on top of layers) Lots of high end architects prefer engineered hardwood simply because it won't warp like full wood.

If you’re doing a high end house flip I don’t think you can use engineered hardwood floors anymore Gotta go with the real thing

Totally get the “5 million options” overwhelm 😅 FWIW, wet/dry vac-mops can be clutch for mud + dogs on LVP, but a few pro tips: 1) quick vacuum/sweep first (grit + roller = micro-scratches) 2) go easy on soap (too much = streaky + sticky) 3) empty/rinse the dirty tank + roller same day — self-clean helps, but it’s not magic. Is your LVP mostly smooth, or does it have a deeper texture/embossing?

TradWife Question: do you own one of those wet dry vacuum mop things? Does it actually work? Is the self-clean legit? Context: 2-4 months of mud season annually, I live on a farm w ppl & dogs tracking stuff into the house constantly, LVP flooring, steam mop is dying rip.

Design trick: wide-plank + light oak = instant “bigger room” vibes. Pair it with simple white baseboards and watch the space breathe. #flooring #laminate #homerenovation #interiordesign

Fair call 😅 If it’s flat now and you’re still getting “crunch,” a few usual suspects: • a tiny high spot/ridge in the patch (a straightedge + flashlight will find it fast) • debris/grit under a plank edge (even one staple head will do it) • a click joint that didn’t fully seat in that area • perimeter/door-jamb pinch (not enough expansion gap) If you tap-walk the floor, does the noise track to one seam/row, or is it more random?

@builddirect It's definitely crunchy in some spots unfortunately. Patch cement by hand for a 7mm discrepancy was NOT the move, but I hope it holds & I might use expandable caulk injected through some spots. The underlayment is built in to these Lifeproof planks

Refloored the living room last weekend! Went with a maple LVP to match the maple hardwood throughout the rest of the home. Finished with a walnut quarter round trim. Challenges included hand removing 500 underlayment staples, rotten carpet tack boards, and leveling an uneven floor. Couldn’t easily & quickly use SLC on the OSB subfloor so I had to mix & hand spackle 49lbs of patch cement across 132sq ft & eyeball it level to within 3mm across the floor. Exhausting project but it’s done and looks beautiful 🤩

Doorways are the usual “stress point” for floating floors. A quick checklist: 1) Make sure there’s proper expansion gap at the walls/door jambs (pinched boards can push a joint apart). 2) If it’s a click joint that’s separating, a flooring pull bar + tapping block can often snug it back up. 3) If it keeps re-opening, adding a proper T-mold/threshold (so traffic isn’t flexing that seam) helps a lot. If the tongue/groove is damaged, it may be a small plank swap. Any chance that doorway is a high spot/low spot transition?

@N8RealEstate Love seeing the numbers + photos. On a 550 sqft, $32k is real work — what were the big-ticket line items (kitchen/bath/HVAC)? Also, what flooring did you go with to keep it durable but still photograph well? Looks sharp.

Finished my 550 Sqft House Purchase: $5,000 Rehab: $32,000 SOW: Everything Sale Price: $55,000 Profit: $15,000

Sanding is the make-or-break, agreed. One thing DIYers miss: stop and fix squeaks/nail pops before the first pass, and vacuum between grits (dust acts like sandpaper and leaves swirls). Curious—do you prefer water-based poly for the faster recoat / less ambering, or oil for that warm tone?

Refinishing hardwood floors sounds simple—sand, stain, seal, finish—but the sanding stage makes or breaks the job. See how patience, the right tools, and careful technique can turn a worn floor into a showpiece. finehomebuilding.com/2015/07/11/ref…

@bankertobuilder Nice refresh — the lighter floor + paint makes the whole place feel way bigger. What’d you go with for the flooring (LVP/laminate/engineered), and did you keep the existing baseboards or swap them? Those two details make/break the “builder-grade vs polished” vibe.

This early 90s home needed a makeover How did my team do?

Nice — nothing beats the look/feel of real wood. Two quick ones (promise): 1) Solid or engineered? (engineered can be a lifesaver if the house will sit vacant between showings / humidity swings) 2) Prefinished or site-finished? Also with pool traffic, a good doormat + felt pads + a “no wet towels on the floor” rule will save you a ton of grief.

@builddirect Wood floors

Purchase price: $162,500 Reno: $51k Listing this week at $299k priced to sell. 1.1 acre lot / gated pool / 3 bed & 2.5 bath All this for under $300k

Totally fair 😂 In 100+ yr homes the “install” is half the battle. If you ever redo it, the real cheat code is hitting the flatness spec first (engineered + solid both hate waves). Often it’s: tighten/screw the subfloor, plane high spots, then patch/level low areas. Curious — how out-of-flat are we talking (like 1/8" over 6 ft, or bigger dips), and are there any squeaks?

@builddirect @Watchman_motto Yeah we got the right thickness, but it’s floating over plywood in a 100+ yr old house so the floors are somewhat uneven anyways. So that’s why I would go with actual hardwood planks if I could do it over again but maybe also professional installation too 😂