David Lane Design

A few tips on buying vintage denim🧵

@Etlaha_1 🙏🙏🙏

@DavidLaneDesign Look great

Simple can still be really, really good.

@audrey_seawood @dieworkwear They really are the best. I also like my Vanda ties a ton.

@DavidLaneDesign @dieworkwear Love that brown tie!!! And look at that audacious blue one he is holding!! Dang.

For people passionate about classic tailoring, the answer has always been Sam Hober. If you judge things by online presentation, then Sam Hober will not impress. David, who founded the company decades ago and named it after his daughter Sam, hasn't updated his website since 2001. To most people, his operation will probably look amateurish. But in online forums such as StyleForum and London Lounge, where people argue all day about the minutiae of tailoring, Sam Hober has a cult following. He stands out for a couple of reasons. First, his ties are fully handmade and bespoke, unlike most of the makers mentioned in that thread. Being fully handmade means the spine is handsewn with a bit more give, ensuring that it will never snap. If the tie is untipped, meaning the back of the blade doesn't have an extra piece of fabric, then the edges will be hand-rolled and handsewn, as shown in slide one. Importantly, the edges are gently pressed so they have a soft edge, as shown in slide two. Most manufacturers press the ties flat, like paninis, and ship them en masse inside large cardboard boxes, where they become even flatter. By pressing the ties only gently and shipping them individually, Hober's ties retain some three-dimensionality. Being bespoke, you can also request whatever you want. Generally speaking, the width of your ties should be in the neighborhood of the width of your lapels — a 3" lapel requires ties between 2.75" and 3.25" inches, whereas a 4" lapel will require something wider. Sam Hober not only produces ties in any width and length, but can also adjust the interlining to suit the knot you want. This includes getting that small knot and bottleneck shape you see in slide three, which requires the right interlining and cut. Additionally, he can make three-, six-, or seven-fold ties—the last of which adds a bit of weight to the accessory. Second, unlike some of the other suggestions in that list, Sam Hober owns their own manufacturing facilities. By purchasing directly from the maker, you are getting better value for money. Most other companies hire a factory to produce their ties in fabrics and details you never get to choose, and then charge you handsomely. Here, you get to work with the maker directly and get something that's better made and more affordable than what you'll find at luxury brands. Of course, they are not the only worthwhile maker. Among small, artisanal operations, I also like EG Cappelli and Vanda Fine Clothing. There's also Drake's, Bigi, E. Marinella, Tie Your Tie, and Shibumi. If you're on a budget, look for Ben Silver on the second-hand market. But, like with a lot of things, if you're looking for the best, I encourage you to focus on the real hallmarks of quality and think about the difference between craft-based operations run by makers vs. brands run by businesspeople.

@jonmon86 🤝🤝🤝

@DavidLaneDesign Less drip more drape

@Erek_Smith It’s been my explorer about 90% of the time. Ref. 124270

@DavidLaneDesign love everything you do but we need more watch shots my guy

Back in the OG spot for today. Linen, seersucker, wool and cordovan.

@hetzerhetzer Thank you. 🙏

@DavidLaneDesign Looking great!

@she_obey Thank you. Love my seersucker.

@DavidLaneDesign Love the texture of the shirt!!!!

@YYCGeorge @Mikekuczkowski @sharon_wisner @dieworkwear 🙏🙏🙏

@Mikekuczkowski @sharon_wisner @dieworkwear I’d also follow @DavidLaneDesign - I wouldn’t call him fat, but he’s a big guy who looks fantastic (my bias is that he and I look very alike and I admire his style, and willingness to reveal himself publicly as a bear of of man who loves tailored clothing).

If you use custom tailors, Loro Piana has a very nice navy tonal seersucker in their Mare fabric book. It's a whisper light 6/7oz cloth and made from wool-silk instead of cotton. I think it hangs better and has that bouncy feel of wool without wearing warm. Also less preppy.

@audrey_seawood @HA71197888 Thank you. No, no pouch in the back.

@HA71197888 @DavidLaneDesign Oh yes! Off duty Detective!!!! And its almost like a fishing/ hunting jacket, lookit those pockets! Couple 3 ringnecks fit in there!! Does it have horizontal full pouch pocket in back?

Vintage and new. Up close images continue to be a struggle.

@galen_abbott It’s actually an old 60’s-70’s Abercrombie & Fitch.

@DavidLaneDesign What a great summer jacket! Who is the maker?

@HA71197888 🕵️‍♂️

@DavidLaneDesign Got that off duty detective fit on🫡

@yam0uni Thank you. 🙏

@DavidLaneDesign great fit

@SLOsalty1 Very. In the high 80’s maybe 90!

@DavidLaneDesign My sister says it hot in Roc

@Tailwind791 Sometimes simple is best.

@DavidLaneDesign One of my favorite fits.

The light in the morning may be tricky.

@Tailwind791 Thank you. 🙏

@audrey_seawood Haha. Maybe.

@DavidLaneDesign This outfit says jump in the car, we going for an adventure. We might come home sandy/ sweaty/ happy.

@audrey_seawood 😊

@DavidLaneDesign That new room. You the only soft surface in there.

New room unlocked 🔓