IPIND_3D
285 posts
IPIND_3D
@IPIND3D
3D CAD designer, 3D printing services, Maker.
Brisbane, Queensland Beigetreten Mart 2023
25 Folgt46 Follower
making the call, its official
Tesla drivers are the new BMW drivers
Advertising a car that "drives itself" leads to bad drivers getting it and then not paying as much attention cus the car will take care of things is my theory
GIF
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@CanuckCreator @Prusa3D These settings will help stop the supports sagging and/or potentially failing. Makes a big difference when you have tall supports or the supports have a fair bit of weight on them.
Add a sheath around the supports and increase the support extrusion width by 0.02-0.06mm.
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And that's the left foot ankle joint parts printed.
The @Prusa3D XL is coming in clutch right now. Running low on cf-petg so being able to ration it and use PLA for the supports is nice(along with the east removal benefit)
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Blue camo 160th SOAR MH-60 followed by a MH-47 going down the beach 😎
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@AzzyDesignWorks @DIYMaker_Johan @Booleans_Things @LDOMOTORSJASON 1000000% agree! Cardboard easily doubles the drying time.
In Australia, they will often put the drier to 70% within the first 30mins. It can easily take 24hrs to get it down.
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@IPIND3D @DIYMaker_Johan @Booleans_Things @LDOMOTORSJASON Especially if it has a cardboard spool. I find my fresh polymaker rolls come in and jump the dryer to 45%. Takes about 12-15 hours to get them back into the 20s.
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I don't really get it. Dried it for 8 hours on 70c, second time I dried it this week. And still lots of smoke. That's when inserting it via Prusa C1 filament menu. Also extruder via menu at 250c, same results. 🤔
It's @LDOMOTORSJASON ASA-CF
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@IPIND3D @Booleans_Things @LDOMOTORSJASON So keeping the dryer on 70c for 24 hours? (After it's 20 or less % of humidity?)
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@DIYMaker_Johan @Booleans_Things @LDOMOTORSJASON That isn't long enough. You need to dry filament till it gets below ~20% humidity and keep it there for ~24hrs.
6-8hrs is only long enough to dry the outer layer of the spool.
You will get some smoke of filaments like PC and ASA. That VOCs coming off them.
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@Booleans_Things @LDOMOTORSJASON Not even sure. Few days ago I did dried it for 6 hours at 70c and today for 8 hours. Unfortunately 70c is the max limit of the Sunlu S4. 😅
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@_WimVDK_ @Prusa3D @3D_Musketeers Sounds like someone needs to stop using an impact drivers for swapping out hotend components. 🤣
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So your boy looks to have stripped the beginning threads of the heatblock too. Support? They're replacing the heatblock AND hotend under warranty! @Prusa3D rocks. @3D_Musketeers Feel free to use this for this weeks #printfixfriday
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First real support issue for my @Prusa3D XL 5 tool. When both of you said Prusa Support rocks @3D_Musketeers @CanuckCreator you weren't lying. When i swapped out my brass nozzles on the XL for Obxidians i must have done something wrong on toolhead 2. I was getting z-home errors.
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@reprinted3D @ZombieHedgehog_ @lost_in_tech going the BUT YOU DONT KNOW FOR SURE path is just making fire for no reason, may as well complain that someone doesnt believe in santa clause, accusations like that need proof or your just going all conspiracy
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I'm loving the new 4 tool budget toolchangers coming out soon, but who is going to be the first to make a reliable 5/6 toolchanger? A lot of models I print would benefit from additional colors or support materials!
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@ZombieHedgehog_ @lost_in_tech I've had mine for going on 2 years.
It's extremely reliable and consistent.
It's issues are not tool changer related. They're things like poor part cooling, poor electronics cooling and other minor silly design decisions.
For multi-colour and multi-material it's been great.
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@lost_in_tech Until I see more people with very consistant results, I'm not too sure about the XL 😅
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@Hammyontwitch @CWLemoine He's a DCS computer chair warrior.
Super well liked in the DCS community too. 🙄
reddit.com/r/hoggit/comme…
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@gonecozycrafts @StonedModder @That1NetworkGuy After a ton of testing, I've found ~24-25C is the critical temp for the XL.
Some prints I do, I have to run the AC to keep the temp below this or they fail or have defects.
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@StonedModder @That1NetworkGuy I guess so, maybe I should calibrate it. Another thing that could play a role. It's a bit colder downstairs (20 celsius~ for the 2nd XL) compared to upstairs (28 celsius~ for the 1st XL)
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Hmm, for some weird reason both my Prusa XLs print a little bit different. The inlay that I print on my first PrusaXL fits snug in the shell. Whereas the the inlays from my second PrusaXL seems to be a bit loose (same shell).
Anyone have an idea?
Both use a HF obxidian nozzle
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IPIND_3D retweetet
The filament’s escaping and the nozzles are shattering on this week’s #PrintFix Friday! 💔 We’ll help you figure out why filament is coming out of the middle of your hotend, why your super hard nozzle is getting obliterated, and why your CORE One has some blobs! (Link in comment)
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Give me the two most common phrases you say at your job. Don’t give any context.
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@zuidwijk @w5aug_radio @Prusa3D Agree. $200AUD per nozzle is a joke.
I paid $150 each for the V6 ones I have.
Are they awesome? Yep.
Are they ludicrously overpriced? Absolutely.
Am I going to spend $1000AUD to fit out my XL5TH? Nope!
Then you want to run a different size? Shell out another $200-1K. 🙄
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@w5aug_radio @Prusa3D Sure, you can add it to the cart while ordering the printer 😉 I’d love to see Bondtech CHT BiMetal in Nextruder format. The obxidian I had bad experiences with and the diamond is too expensive imho.
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Want to give your printer a nice upgrade? The new Prusa Nozzle E3D DiamondBack, is now available on our e-shop. Featuring a Polycrystalline Diamond (PCD) tip, these nozzles offer extreme wear resistance, precision printing, and longer lifespan.
prusa3d.com/product/prusa-…
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