John Cassells

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John Cassells

John Cassells

@ScottishGasMan

Personal Twitter Account Technology lover, Renewable energy, Science geek, movie buff and part time gamer Training Manager at Vaillant Group

Scotland Katılım Ocak 2012
708 Takip Edilen1.2K Takipçiler
John Cassells retweetledi
Ryan Mills
Ryan Mills@Rdmills88·
Another day at Vaillant EuroCentral learning all about heat pumps. Here’s a wee rebuild of the AroTherm 👊🏼 @vaillantuk
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John Cassells
John Cassells@ScottishGasMan·
@L__Bow @glynhudson They work in tandem. On low volume or zoned systems, you could rack up quite high flow temps if there was no hysteresis and only degree min. On high volume open systems though your right the degree min would probably suffice on its own.
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Lewis Bowick
Lewis Bowick@L__Bow·
Hey @ScottishGasMan, do Arotherms shut down the compressor immediately if flow temp exceeds target by some margin? I get instant shutdowns when going into setback, often restarting within a few minutes. I'd think degree minutes should cushion the cooldown @glynhudson
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John Cassells
John Cassells@ScottishGasMan·
@L__Bow @glynhudson I've got 120L volumizer on my system and zero TRVs, so I have mine very low (3k off the top of my head) so I over heat the flow only a tiny bit, and the volume takes care of reducing cycling.
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John Cassells
John Cassells@ScottishGasMan·
@L__Bow @glynhudson Yea, Compressor Hysteresis under configuration. increasing it though will allow more overheat in shoulder months reducing cycling, but running hotter and with potential fluctuations in room temp between cycles. Reduce it and less over heat, faster reacting, but more cycles
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John Cassells
John Cassells@ScottishGasMan·
@L__Bow @glynhudson If your set back is a good few degrees different from comfort temp, you could cushion it by having say 21 degrees till 10pm, 10:00-10:10 = 20 deg, 10:10-10:20 =19 deg so that the desired flow temp doesn't drop off massively in one go.
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John Cassells
John Cassells@ScottishGasMan·
@L__Bow @glynhudson As factory set. If the actual flow temp exceeds the desired by 7 degrees it will shut down. If its under 7 degrees difference then the degree minute timer will take over. You can make it more than 7, but then risk excessive over/underheating in the shoulder months.
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Glyn Hudson
Glyn Hudson@glynhudson·
A friend just sent me this photo of his Vaillant HP controller, it's currently -5C and forecast -12C tonight, the HP has automatically switched into constant running which will ignore the usual overnight setback, this is a good feature
Glyn Hudson tweet media
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Mick Wall
Mick Wall@Zarch1972·
@plumbers_urban @glynhudson Older software on the heat pump controller or the sensocomfort Szymon? I upgraded the PCB to the latest version.
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John Cassells
John Cassells@ScottishGasMan·
@Zarch1972 @glynhudson Honestly couldn't say for sure. MQTT could poll ebus for info every 60s, but if there's been no update since last data, it will just repeat the kast data AFAIK, I'd expect it will be every 30- 60s. That's roughly how long it takes to update wired outdoor if sudden temp jump
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Mick Wall
Mick Wall@Zarch1972·
@glynhudson @ScottishGasMan I see entries update every 60s in MQTT from ebus. But I'm not certain the controller is passing temperatures that quickly. When I look at the entity history in Home Assistant, I only see changes every 5 minutes. But that might be a HA refresh thing.
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Mick Wall
Mick Wall@Zarch1972·
Is there anything in the Sensocomfort specs @ScottishGasMan about how frequently the wireless RF version wakes up and sends the indoor temperature? And is this more frequent on the wired version? Doing some 'expanded' room temp mod analysis. My RF seems to sleep for ages!!
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Mick Wall
Mick Wall@Zarch1972·
Hot Water: The challenges of Eco mode on a 5kW Arotherm with a big cylinder. For the whole of the past year (2024) I've ran in Eco mode on the Vaillant (article and graphs being written to summarise all the 2024 runs). Eco mode caps the compressor to 50%, which gives best efficiency. @energystatsuk article here explaining the different modes: energy-stats.uk/arotherm-plus-… But it doesn't half take a long time on a 5kW unit and a 250L cylinder when I let the tank drop as empty as possible for best efficiency. Overnight last night we started from just 7% state of charge on our @MixergyLtd (so 232L to heat to 45C) and it took 3hrs averaging just 2.5kW output cos it was 0C outside with a COP of 2.92 It would have been quicker on the 3kW immersion (but obviously 1:1 electric). Note: You can get over 4.5kW output in Eco when it's 20C outside. The hot water run didn't even reach final target temp as the immersion kicked in for the last tiny bit! The Mixergy logic probably put it out of its misery. LOL Another downside of running Eco at this time of the year is the internal house temperature drop across the long hot water run. The dining room dropped 1.7C across those 3 hours. My daughters loft bedroom fell similar amounts too. This means the heat pump has to work very hard to get the rooms back to temp for the morning. I wonder what the efficiency losses are there compared to what you gain running hot water in Eco versus Normal? Obviously, this would all be less of a problem on bigger heat pumps where you'd higher kW output in Eco. All proportional to the size of the unit. So you'd get quicker hot water runs. It's those of us with the smallest heat pumps, high hot water use and chasing best efficiency that have a conundrum. I'm going to set the hot water runs back to Normal this week. Just see this cold snap out. Crazy thought. But during a cold snap, use the immersion to heat the hot water on overnight cheap tariff, take the 1:1 electric efficiency hit. But keep the house at a stable temperature? 🤔 Monitoring by @openenergymon
Mick Wall tweet media
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John Cassells
John Cassells@ScottishGasMan·
@DpawsonGas It should do either. The little link connection changes it, off the top of my head link in = temp, link out = power. Will double check when I'm in office, but sure it's that way around.
John Cassells tweet media
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John Cassells
John Cassells@ScottishGasMan·
@DpawsonGas @DrBoilers Yes, needs a VR34 card fitted to the boiler, which gives is the ability to take a 0-10V bms signal to control either flow setpoint or output power directly, and can output 24V boiler fault signal back to BEMS
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DpawsonGas
DpawsonGas@DpawsonGas·
@DrBoilers can you like a vaillant comercial boiler to a bms system? Properly not just on/off signal?
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John Cassells
John Cassells@ScottishGasMan·
@plumbers_urban @NMEverett01 3/3 Keep all controls, wiring centres on the primary ebus line, then take ebus to VR32/B card, then it splits to feed HP2 and it's interface. Other than setting HP1 as the DHW supplier, and making sure actuation reversal is on, there's nor really any additional setup required.
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Szymon Czaban
Szymon Czaban@plumbers_urban·
@ScottishGasMan @NMEverett01 DHW will be 90% of the time done direct with solar PV as there are 4 DHW cylinders and we can only connect 1 to heat pumps
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Szymon Czaban
Szymon Czaban@plumbers_urban·
This is slowly taking shape. Maybe one more week before I can commission this 25kW job.
Szymon Czaban tweet mediaSzymon Czaban tweet media
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John Cassells
John Cassells@ScottishGasMan·
@plumbers_urban @NMEverett01 2/x Make sure that's primary HP (without the vr32 card) and on senso comfort you can set it so only HP1 does DHW, otherwise the 2nd would kick up to DHW temp and pump to the buffer at the same time.
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John Cassells
John Cassells@ScottishGasMan·
@plumbers_urban @NMEverett01 1/x Personally I'd just go ebus cascade in that case, and 12 will make quick work of topping up a cylinder, and that means they balance the running hours etc and talk to each other. Assuming by pic only one is feeding cylinder anyway.
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John Cassells
John Cassells@ScottishGasMan·
@plumbers_urban @NMEverett01 Primary/backup needs 2nd senso comfort as electronically they are separate heat pumps, and you use the ZH back up output of one though a relay to signal the EVU demand switch of the 2nd. Ebus cascade needs a VR32/B address card for one of the heat pumps so they can talk
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Szymon Czaban
Szymon Czaban@plumbers_urban·
@ScottishGasMan @NMEverett01 They will mostly use 50% of the house with the rest on low set back (16c) / so maybe a backup wiring is a better option? Would that not just keep one unit running 90% of the time?
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John Cassells
John Cassells@ScottishGasMan·
@plumbers_urban @NMEverett01 2/2 Primary/backup has one unit as the main CH supplier, and one as the DHW supplier, so the 2nd unit can do DHW at the same time as the 1st does heating, and only when it's higher heat demand will it bring the 2nd heatpump in to support heating.
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