Creative Bear

These controls panels are a super fun little electronics project. I really enjoyed designing them, I'm excited to get them mounted on my office wall. Find STL's and links to the components on @Thangs3D. Download: #1 than.gs/m/1525493 #2 than.gs/m/1525494

If you’re on Windows, never, ever, ever, ever run a random EXE file from the internet.

@no1089 @amiedoubleD That is a tongue for hockey skates (for comfort). It is also called a puck, not a ball 😀

@amiedoubleD I would be hard-pressed to trust my shins to layer adhesion. That ball hurts. One impact and it’s likely compromised.

Okay True Hockey, I see those layer lines. Love that 3D printing keeps sneaking its way into everything.

@ZombieHedgehog_ @UnraidOfficial I only have one parity drive that doesn't show in this list that is 20TB. My cache drives are 2 1TB nvme drives.

What does everyone's @UnraidOfficial storage usage look like? Looks like I need to store more stuff😅

Was asked to print these for a local DnD group.

@greghuber I gave an old phone away recently; I did wipe it. When person I gave it to tried to set it up, it was sending me texts with codes. She picked the wrong option initially. That phone doesn’t show up in my devices. Was kind of weird. She eventually got it set up with her own account

Second time in the last few months I am getting texts and calls from Apple with a passcode. Also being promoted to change my password. Does this actually mean someone used my password to log in? (1/2)

This past week I had the honour of marrying @cyberPam95 in a place that means a lot to us, Jamaica. Best day of our lives! Yes, 3D printed items helped with some of the decor 😎

@MandicReally I thought all Loctite threadlockers were engineered for metal. Still good to know. I guess this applies if you are using threaded inserts and there is a risk of contact with plastic?

What Loctite Threadlocker does to ABS/ASA. It gets to be like classic bakelite when it starts to just crumble to dust. I use it on all of my builds, but I'm very specific about how I use it and only when threading metal into metal.

Hot Take .3mf files suck they are not universally usable between slicers and printers and I'm constantly loading / reloading files and at this point I'd rather just have an STL with basic settings outlined in the file description

This is my most reliable printer. To be fair it pushes less plastic than the big guys. But it has been so dependable, and it has saved my arse a few times *knocks on wood*

We have a completed chases. Just need to finish printing the body and remote. I guess I’ll find something else to work on while I wait for the printers to finish.

I know how I’m spending my day off work.

From the way it looks, you would think it would be hard to disassemble, but when you know how, it’s just a lot of screws. Not a lot of plastic clips or other stuff that usually breaks when you tear it down.

It is unfortunate that @OwlLabs doesn’t sell replacement parts. Their Meeting Owl would be easy to repair otherwise. Only the lens is broken on this one. Could have been a 30 minute repair. Now it’s e-waste because it’s out of warranty.

It seems like a lot of commenters don’t fully understand why you would want a high chamber temperature. For materials like PLA and PETG, an enclosed printer can be helpful mainly to block cold drafts that might cause parts to lift or warp off the bed, but those materials generally prefer a low ambient air temperature and strong part cooling. This is why many enclosed printers recommend leaving doors open or actively venting when printing PLA, and why some machines include automatic exhaust systems to prevent the chamber from heating up too much. Materials like ABS, ASA, Nylon, and Polycarbonate behave very differently. These materials generally benefit from, and in some cases require, a much warmer ambient air temperature to reduce thermal gradients within the part (carbon/glass filled materials dramatically help too). Keeping the entire print warm improves layer bonding, reduces internal stress, and dramatically lowers the chance of warping or cracking. A basic enclosure helps by trapping heat generated by the heated bed, but relying on the bed alone places a hard limit on how warm the chamber can get. Insulating the enclosure improves heat retention, but the most effective solution is adding an auxiliary heat source, commonly referred to as a chamber heater. A chamber heater allows you to actively set and maintain a target chamber temperature, often controlled through the printer or slicer, such as 60-70C for materials like ABS or ASA. The heater cycles on and off to hold that temperature consistently and also shortens warm-up time before a print starts, which is especially important for large or long-running jobs. Chamber heaters must be integrated safely. This typically means using a properly rated solid state relay to control heater power, redundant thermal safety cutoffs, correct grounding and electrical isolation, and firmware or controller integration so the heater shuts off automatically when a print finishes or if a fault occurs. If you don’t have a chamber heater but still want stronger and more reliable prints, a common approach is to heat soak the enclosure using the heated bed. By bringing the bed up to the final print temperature and holding it there for 10 to 20 minutes (depending on enclosure size and bed power), the chamber air, frame, and motion components can reach a more stable temperature. Many setups also use a bed fan mod to circulate warm air from the bed throughout the chamber, helping reduce temperature stratification and improving print consistency. In short, chamber heaters aren’t about making every printer hotter all the time. They exist to give you control over the thermal environment when the material demands it. Once you move beyond PLA and PETG, controlling chamber temperature becomes an important factor in print reliability, part strength, and dimensional accuracy, not a luxury feature or a gimmick.

I understand why @ChrisPirillo is enjoying augmented coding so much. I started learning n8n along with AI assisted code writing. I just turned a process that occurs daily and takes 45-60min by a human into a task that is done in a few minutes by a computer; it is kinda scary.

The engineering of this model is very well done.

Been slowly working on this RC car build for about a week. Everything is being printed with ABS. This model is going together exceptionally well so far.

@greghuber I have some up in the attic space that I hear at night trying to scratch/bite their way into the house.

We had a few mice get their way back in through the HVAC refrigerant pipe, chewed through the foam/silicone. Those little critters have been a real nuisance. Had a "professional" seal it this time, and going to have to go back to the bait boxes. Bucket trap was effective.

Mostly printed in @Polymaker_3D PLA.

All done gluing him together. Very happy with how it turned out. Some parts didn’t go together cleanly, but still a great looking model. He is almost 2’ tall.