Urban Composition

This is me #ibew #uniondrip

@PDG887 @Nikola08200833 @dieworkwear Oh I see, I read “dark brown wrong” & took it out of context. Yes I agree, dark brown is incredibly useful

@urban_comp @Nikola08200833 @dieworkwear Tan with navy looks terrible imo. Dark brown with navy looks good. I wouldn’t wear dark brown with greys generally but kinda depends (like if it’s a certain dark grey). Dark brown with olive or a lighter brown suit is good.

Did an AMA with my friend @urban_comp, where we answered your style-related questions. One was "what are some menswear 'rules' you once believed in, but don't anymore?" Episode is looong, but there were a lot of questions! Link in the next tweet. 🧵

@PDG887 @Nikola08200833 @dieworkwear Both of you are crazy

@Nikola08200833 @dieworkwear @urban_comp Tan, almost always, but dark brown, wrong

@wwornwwell With a crispy polo shirt, no less

A hater’s obligation to admit I am wearing Mashburn at this very moment.

Mashburn’s fun because you can imagine this batik chore coat covering the French Riviera sunburn of a strung-out nepo baby whose band didn’t quite make it, but know it will be worn unconvincingly layered over a suspiciously crisp polo shirt at a law firm’s summer cocktail party.

@JHKltd Tie is vintage Brooks Brothers in wool challis, shoes are St Crispin’s austerity brogue

@urban_comp Can you reveal where you got the tie and shoes from?

I comfort myself about spending decades of my life diving into menswear minutia by taking pleasure in long-forgotten seasonal details like mottled twill suiting, wool challis ties, madder silk pocket squares, Hollywood waists, dropped loops, and shivering breaks.

@JohnHaslett5 Check out Drapers Ascot 2-ply. It’s super breathable, soft, & holds a crease

@urban_comp I will see them on Sunday. Going with a mid brown Hopsack sport coat. Then looking at what they have in 2 ply tropical wool swatches for a couple of trouser ideas. Definitely need something breathable for the Miami weather.

One of my tailors, I Sarti Italiani, is visiting NYC & Miami. For info: customer@isartitaliani.eu

@bigasaplanet It’s a vintage Boucheron, really cool. Made with yellow enamel, garnets, and diamonds.

@urban_comp And DiCaprio wins by a mile. Love the bee broach - was it for a reason or just looks good ?

I’m all for creative dressing (more on that later) but the Oscars are one of the few occasions where one could see proper black tie outfits (tuxedo in the US, dinner suit in the UK). Only a few succeeded:

@Everydayepifany Dior

@urban_comp Who did Leo’s suit?? The shawl collar is soo good

@NBA_Body Bold! I like it

@urban_comp Tweed, peak lapel with patch pockets

@RebNachum They understand more classic proportions and know how to make a good fit

@urban_comp great fits man, how do you get your pants to fit like that? i've been to three tailors now and still end up with slimmer and more tapered than i want

@nacsoundsystem His shirt collar is well within class proportions

@urban_comp Leo’s huge shirt collar though? Or leeway is given for that

@NBA_Body Nice! What did you choose?

@urban_comp They just measured me for a jacket in Chicago, can’t wait.

@desertdufferLLG This post was more for the details of black tie, less for fit/style. Details are easier to nail, whereas fit requires a lot more tailoring, and style is subjective.

@urban_comp Also, both DB trousers (slim fit on one, oxford bags on the other) are a miss for me.

@desertdufferLLG @ClownRowing 36mm is my personal limit for a dress watch as well.

@urban_comp @ClownRowing Personally, I think 36mm is an upper limit. They can (and do) make an otherwise dressy calatrava, etc., but larger than 36 or thicker than about 8 or so, and it’s a daily to me. A dress watch should really be almost unnoticeable.

@desertdufferLLG Agreed, I thought he looked great

@urban_comp Aside from another too-big watch, Chris Evans was styled well. (Also had some minor fit issues, with sleeves, sleevehead, collar.)

@LoroAsh Nice! Great fellas

@urban_comp Was able to get a slot with Steed tomorrow 🙏

@desertdufferLLG @ClownRowing Your opinion is valid, and while I don’t share the same narrow definition, I personally would have chosen a smaller dress watch. I’m curious tho; what size do you consider a dress watch to be?

@urban_comp @ClownRowing Again, I totally disagree. Just because it’s on a leather strap doesn’t make it a dress watch. Dress watches are definitionally discreet (small).

@desertdufferLLG @ClownRowing I’ll concede that it’s not the ideal choice, the 1908 is very much a dress watch.

@urban_comp @ClownRowing You can call a 39mm watch a dress watch, but that doesn’t make it so.

@desertdufferLLG I did see that, but for this post, it’s less about fit; the details are easier to get right.

@urban_comp Skaarsgard’s collar gap was gapping in this pic and all night.

@ClownRowing They’re both dress watches, so I’ll give it a pass

@urban_comp two are wearing wristwatches so they almost succeeded

@dwarfclub Fair enough. Is your 6 button DB a Y or V configuration? Do you button yours at the bottom or middle button?

@urban_comp Also, I really hate the trapezoid configuration for four button DBs -just because - so it’s not even something that is possible for me