Steed Tailors

Steed USA Fall/Autumn Trunk Show Dates. DM or email info@steed.co.uk To secure your private appointment. #SavileRow #Bespoke #Trunkshows

If you're interested in bespoke tailoring or shoemaking, and based in the United States or Japan, I have some trunk show announcements to share with you. Broadly speaking, classic Western men’s style has traditionally been divided into three regions. In the United States, men favored slightly clunky, round-toe shoes (think Alden). In Continental Europe, particularly Italy and France, footwear tended to be sleeker and more fashion-forward (Berluti, Stefano Bemer, Corthay, and the like). And in the UK, shapes generally sat between these two extremes — a touch more refined than American styles, yet considerably more restrained than those on the Continent. If you are looking for that classic English shoe, few do it better than Emiko Matsuda. She moved from Japan to Britain in the 1990s to study shoemaking at Cordwainers’ College, then apprenticed under Terry Moore after joining Foster & Son. Moore, as many know, is one of the great names in West End bespoke shoemaking. He previously worked at Peal & Co, which makes Matsuda one of the last people with a direct lineage to the great footwear styles of the Golden Era of menswear (roughly the 1930s to the 1980s). After working at Foster & Son for decades, Matsuda struck out on her own and now operates as an independent shoemaker. Her skill is undeniable: she makes fully bespoke shoes by hand, carving a custom last according to your measurements and refining the fit through a series of fittings. Just as importantly, she knows how to make West End shoes in the style that made this region famous. In the photos above, you can see how her tassel loafers have enough shape so they do not look blobby, but still end in a slightly blunted toe so they do not resemble pizza slices. Consider Matsuda if you want true-blue English-style shoes made in the manner favored by the most stylish icons of the 20th century. Speaking of regional traditions, British tailoring is often associated with a hard, padded shoulder line, especially when compared to its Italian or American counterparts. Yet there is a small, relatively obscure British tradition known as the drape cut that complicates this simple story. The drape cut emerged in the early 20th century when Dutch-English tailor Frederick Scholte noticed that a man could be made to look very masculine if he belted up his guard's coat, forcing the chest to puff out in relation. So he built this effect into his pattern drafting. The drape cut, as it came to be known, is defined by a relatively softer shoulder, a nipped waist, and a characteristically full chest that leaves a little extra fabric “draping” near the armhole (as you can see in the close-up of the grey tweed above). Before he died, Scholte trained Per Anderson, who later co-founded Anderson & Sheppard. It was at Anderson & Sheppard that Edwin DeBoise — fresh from working under the late, great Edward Sexton — made his name as one of the last truly masterful cutters in the drape tradition by the close of the century. DeBoise eventually left A&S to start his own firm, Steed, and together with his two sons, Matthew and Chris, he remains one of the few genuine torchbearers of this style (and, in my view, he produces a truer drape cut than modern A&S). Consider Steed if you like classic English tailoring, but specifically that line once worn by Gary Cooper, Fred Astaire, and King Charles back when he was prince. Steed’s drape cut offers more shape than a boxy American sack suit, yet a bit more structure than a typical Neapolitan coat. It's particularly well-suited to men with slightly sloped shoulders and heavier or slimmer builds. Men who have very athletic figures can also ask Edwin to rein in the drape, as this is all bespoke. Finally, my usual disclosure: this is not a paid tweet, as I don't do paid tweets. I don't receive anything from making these announcements — no kickbacks, money, freebies, discounts, store credit, or whatever else. I only make these announcements because I love craft-based clothing and it's my pleasure to connect people with talented makers. If you have questions, please contact the makers directly, as I am not their representative.

In the bespoke tailoring world, the terms crookening and straightening are heavily contested. Different tailors have diff views on the matter, but one of my tailors (Edwin DeBoise) gives his view here. It may be that the Schiaparelli suit wasn't cut right for Bad Bunny's posture

If you're interested in bespoke tailoring and based in the United States, I have some trunk show announcements to share with you. There's a generally observed rule when it comes to ordering clothes from a bespoke tailor: stick to the house style. The term "house style" refers to the natural way a tailor is accustomed to making things, which results in a particular silhouette. Just as you wouldn't order Chinese food from a Mexican chef, you shouldn't order an Italian jacket from an English tailor. @urban_comp is one of the few people I've seen successfully break this rule. When he and his wife visited Sicily about ten years ago, he stumbled upon I Sarti Italiani (ISI). At the time, ISI mostly produced mid-tier, made-to-measure suits for local Sicilians, often ones who needed something nice to wear to weddings. That meant making slim, short jackets using a fused construction (where the face cloth is stabilized with an adhesive). Peter's first jacket from them was OK. However, over the years, he has worked with them to create something that I think is quite remarkable. The new ISI house style is wider through the chest and shoulders, fuller through the sleeves, and longer through the jacket. The trousers are classically full and have a higher rise, as shown above. Importantly, the jackets are now fully canvassed with hand pad-stitching and handmade buttonholes throughout. The style is informed by the classic mid-century tailoring that Peter admires. But since it's done using Southern Italian tailoring techniques, the softer construction lends a sense of ease. I think they work best with people who are relatively straight-sized — say, 36 through 44 chest with your typical 6" or 8" drop, maybe standing between 6'1" and 5'8". The main advantage of ISI is the price. Since Sicilian wages and rent are lower than what you'll find in London, Paris, or New York City, you can get custom tailoring here for about half the price. The lower price point makes it easier to experiment. At a Savile Row tailoring house, you may hesitate to choose a taupe cotton or daring pink corduroy, but feel more confident here. Consider I Sarti Italiani if you're drawn to Italian tailoring, but prefer something more classic than what's typically offered on the rack. Or if you've ever seen @urban_comp and thought, "damn, he looks good." They make most of Peter's suits and sport coats. If you've been following me for a while, you've probably heard the story about how a Dutch-English tailor named Frederick Schlote in the early 20th century noticed that men looked more athletic and masculine if they belted up their Guards coat. So he devised a new method of cutting and tailoring that resulted in a similar silhouette. The drape cut, as it would become known, is characterized by its relatively soft shoulders and full chest, resulting in excess fabric "draping" near the armhole. I think of it as a "Superman" silhouette because it gives men of all shapes that sort of figure. People with a casual interest in tailoring may know Anderson & Sheppard as the primary purveyor of the drape cut, as Frederick Schlote trained A&S co-founder Per Anderson before he died. It was here that cutters such as Colin Harvey would eventually make clothes for some of the most stylish men of the 20th century. However, among hardcore menswear enthusiasts — the individuals who spend their days debating on menswear forums — the favored drape cut tailors are typically small, independent, cutter-run shops. Steed is at the top of that list. Founded in the mid-1990s by Edwin Deboise, they are arguably more of a classic drape cut than the mothership A&S. Edwin worked for a time under the late, great Edward Sexton before becoming head cutter at Anderson & Sheppard in the 1990s. Now at his own family-owned firm, he continues in that tradition (and cutting with the shears he inherited from Harvey). If you like that 1980s or 1990s A&S look, I think Edwin does the best version today. You should not pull a Peter here and try to change the house style. Go to Steed only if you, like me, love that classic British look. The cut is softer than that of Huntsman and Gieves & Hawkes, but it provides more structure than most Italian tailoring. It has that characteristic drape, although they're happy to reign it in depending on your taste and build. Steed now offers three services — full bespoke, semi-bespoke, and made-to-measure — which allow you to choose at different price points. Finally, my usual disclosure: this is not a paid tweet, as I don't do paid tweets. I get nothing from making these announcements — no kickbacks, freebies, discounts, money, store credit, or whatever else. I only make these announcements because I love tailoring and would like to see tailors be able to survive, carrying this craft forward to the next generation. If you have questions, please contact the tailors directly, as I am not their representative.

The term "drape" refers to how excess fabric "drapes" along the armhole. This is done through drafting and tailoring. The chest piece inside is cut on a bias, so that the chest is more rounded. On a clean chest, the garment would sit closer to the body. This is by Steed Bespoke:

@wwornwwell Just logged back on here after a long time and that's great to see! Hope you're doing well! Let me know next time you're back over this side.

I’ve been wearing a 10+ year-old blazer from @SteedTailors all day, and god does it still look and fit great, and yes this is me bragging.

@urban_comp @elandydetexas @Ladlestein @fred_taillour Hi Andy, we visit Houston a minimum of 3 times a year. We visit Dallas and Austin on the same trips. We will be back the weekend of 22nd and 23rd February at The Four Seasons, Downtown Houston if you are interested in meeting with us.

@elandydetexas @Ladlestein I think @fred_taillour and @SteedTailors go to Texas …? Might want to reach out to them & confirm

For those more interested in classic menswear for warm weather, here are a couple fits from the last two weeks in linen (four pattern bingo for those keeping tally) and seersucker.

Bespoke Tweed Sport Coat made from SJ3 by @FoxBrothers1772. The final photo from their website is a better representation of the beautiful colours of this tweed. Unfortunately Chicago Hotel lighting isn't great. #SteedTailors #SavileRow #Tweed

@ZalinskyS @dieworkwear Hi, Our prices for the services we offer can be found via the link. I noticed you're based in Arizona. We have family in Scottsdale & visit regularly. We might be there for Thanksgiving. Hoping to build up a client base in Scottsdale in 2025 or 2026. steed.co.uk/prices

@dieworkwear For the newbie, what's the expected price point for a suit from a trunk show like this?

If you're located in the United States and interested in bespoke tailoring, there are two notable trunk shows coming up. The first is Steed, which is a small, family-owned tailoring firm based in Carlisle (although they also take appointments on Savile Row). They've been my main tailor for over ten years. The company's founder and head cutter, Edwin DeBoise, trained under the late, great Edward Sexton before working as Anderson & Sheppard's head cutter in the 1990s. I think he's one of the best—if not the best—cutters for a style known as the drape cut. In the early 20th century, Dutch-English tailor Frederick Scholte noticed that a guard's coat could be made to look very masculine if he belted up the waist, which caused the chest to puff out. So he built this silhouette into his drafting methods. The drape cut, as it was later known, is defined by its softer shoulder and fuller chest. It's called the drape cut because excess material "drapes" near the armhole (easier to see in lightweight worsteds than thick woolens). I like the drape cut because it helps build up a flattering V-shaped silhouette. It's also a very old school British style without the stiffness of Huntsman. The company has three main offerings: a fully bespoke service (pattern cut by Edwin), a semi-bespoke service (pattern cut by Edwin's son or apprentice), and then a made-to-measure service (pattern adjusted off a block and made in a factory, but with fittings done by the Steed team). If you're interested, you can reach out to them at info@steed.co.uk. Along with the dates above, they will be in NYC on August 16th and 17th The second is Assisi, a relatively young South Korean tailoring shop based in Seoul. Although they've only been around for three years, their cutter Kim Min Soo has been cutting for fifteen years. Dabin, pictured above, conducts the fittings and has a great eye for style. This sort of combination often proves to be very powerful—someone with the technical craft and another with an eye for style, so you end up getting the best of both worlds. Assisi cuts a very soft coat with minimal shoulder padding and just a single layer of canvas for structure. Yet, they still build a lot of shape into their garments (made possible through the use of skilled pad stitching and ironwork). I love the clean fit—nothing ever puckers or pulls—and how things have this very romantic 1980s feel with looking oversized. Assisi will be in New York City from October 25th until the 27th, and then in San Francisco from November 1st until the 3rd. For questions or to make an appointment, email assisibespokehouse@gmail.com. As usual, none of these posts are paid advertisements. I don't get any kickbacks, commissions, or discounts for posting about trunk shows. I only make these announcements because I care a lot about bespoke tailoring and would like to see these crafts survive. If you have questions, please direct them to the tailors.

Fitting for a Two-Piece Chalkstripe Suit. Made from a high twist fabric, woven by Lovat Mills in Scotland. Perfect for traveling & hot climates due to it's crease resistant, open weave nature. Allowing the air to travel through it. #SavileRow #Bespoke

Hi Nick, to answer your question. Our version of "Semi-Bespoke" is far different to any other tailor. We will still draft a Bespoke pattern from scratch, by hand for each individual. However, it will be done by myself (Matthew), my brother Chris or our new apprentice Drew. (The undercutters). Rather than our Father Edwin (Master/Head Cutter). Garments are then machine sewn by our makers but entirely bench made NOT factory made. Our MTM service is an entry level service which is a factory made garment and hand cut but from block patterns which are adjusted based on our specs and figuration details. Cheers, Matthew Deboise

@dieworkwear @edraluk @JamesDurz What’s the difference between bespoke and semi? Is semi-bespoke still a template made from your body (vs a standard template they adjust for M2M) and then like cutting and assembly is done by machines vs full bespoke where it’s all by hand?

If you're interested in custom tailoring, one of my tailors, Steed, will be holding a series of trunk shows throughout the United States next month. Steed is a small, family-owned business run by Edwin DeBoise. He was the head cutter at Anderson & Sheppard in the 1990s (and, for a time before that, worked at Edward Sexton). I think he does the best version of the "drape cut." The drape cut is a soft English style defined by the fullness of the chest, which is built using a cutting method and by putting the chest piece on a bias. The style was invented sometime in the early 20th century by a Dutch-English tailor named Frederick Schlote. He noticed that a man looked very athletic when he belted up a Guard's coat. So he built that silhouette into his tailoring: soft English shoulder paired with a slightly fuller chest that results in excess fabric "draping" near the armhole. In these photos, you can see how the chests are very rounded. In the second pic, you can see the excess fabric resulting in a subtle "fold" near the armhole. I've used Steed for over ten years and have been happy with all my commissions. As with all custom tailoring, you will always want to stay close to the company's house style (don't ask for an Italian jacket from an English tailor or vice versa). But if you like this drape cut, I think Edwin is the best at this style. They offer both bespoke and made-to-measure. Lastly, and as always, I get nothing from these announcements. Like any other customer, I have always paid full price for my Steed orders. I only announce these things because it makes me happy to support craftspeople, and I would like to see such crafts survive. Please direct questions to Steed.

@JamesMcGirk @dieworkwear Hi James, our prices can be found via the link below for our 3 services. Any questions, just DM me or send me an email at info@steed.co.uk steed.co.uk/prices Cheers, Matthew

@JuniorShamon @dieworkwear That's great to hear, it's just a case of trying to get the word out I think about potential visits. It would be easy enough for us to tag it on the back of a Texas trip 3 times a year. I'll keep in touch with you. Matthew

@SteedTailors @dieworkwear That’s great! Really big market for your services here. Please keep me posted!

@willtube4food @dieworkwear Hi Jakob, I'll actually have your suit ready next week so I will drop you an email and we can organise to meet for the fitting.

@dieworkwear Thanks to you I'm waiting for my first suit from them! Hopefully done before they set off for the trunk shows.

@JuniorShamon @dieworkwear Hi Junior, I actually have family in Scottsdale, Arizona. We travel there to visit them quite often. The dream would be to start seeing some clients in the Scottsdale area so we can combine it with seeing them. We might be going out for Thanksgiving so I can keep you updated.

@dieworkwear Let me know when they have an event like this in Phoenix. I need a solid drape cut suits. Do you know of any in Arizona?

Steed Bespoke Linen Suit. #Bespoke

Boston Trunk Show Date for June. #SavileRow #BostonTailor